The difficulty in Venice is finding a peaceful spot. I love markets and fresh produce so am always happy to explore and find an authentic place to eat local produce. Staying five minutes from the Rialto Bridge we crossed over to the right side of the Grand Canal to the Rialto Market. Here there are the Erberia and Pescheria (Vegetable and Fish Markets) as well as a collection of lovely smaller wine bars with lovely cheese and meats for a light lunch in a less chaotic spot next to the Grand Canal.
Walking around Venice you discover wonderful places to eat and soak up the atmosphere of this unique city. We also did visit some of the more well known establishments but I confess that I did not enjoy these as much as the small restaurants that we stumbled across which were shambolic with local trade rather than crowds of tourists where you are also treated with some disdane instead of the local warmth.
We had breakfast in the famous Florian on St Marks Square. I was quite shocked by the entire ordeal. The waiters were rude and rushed and we were seated in grotty room which smelt of damp and quite frankly was like a station waiting room. The breakfast was delicious but I would not return. Notably and in total contrast we had lunch at a restaurant recommended by Rachel Allen called Da Fiore and this was outstanding. Situated in a small residential street the food was genuine and delicious. Beautiful table settings and tableware, especially the glass and also full of local residents, always a good sign.Da Fiore
The other spot where we spent some time was on the right side of the Grand Canal. This means crossing over the Rialto Bridge and exploring but tucked away and sitting alongside the canal are a series of wonderful small Osteria type venues to eat with more tranquility and authenticity. Al Pesador
We could not leave Venice without a visit to Harry’s Bar and an authentic Bellini. This has very much been left in its original state. While many Venetian landmarks have now been restored Harry’s bar is untouched. My Bellini was delicious but served in a tumbler and the interior of the bar is pretty un inspiring. The Barmen are all in crisp white jackets and very attentive and charming but the experience was a little bit of an anti climax. I still loved it and the history of this famous bar is the attraction its a bit like visiting the distinguished poor relations in their rambling manor house which they cannot afford to do up! Harrys Bar